Returning Home.

Intake with interpreter.

Parking lot at the Godvari clinic.

Afternoon Puja

“Dhanybhad” and “dukhchha” are two of the first Nepali phrases I learned during my stay as a volunteer practitioner at the Vajra Varahi Healthcare Clinic in the village of Chapagoan. The first phrase is defined as thank you while the second is translated as pain. Although the definitions of these two phrases can be interpreted universally, my perception of the meanings of these words has changed, transformed and evolved during my experience.  What I once believed to have been two words that were easily defined and observed, they now present in a more abstract way that has lead me to reflect upon and seek a deeper understanding. In this pursuit, many questions have surfaced relating to my observations of pain, gratitude and the results of care based on the effectiveness of the overall patient/practitioner relationship.  For example, how is pain determined and processed individually and how does a single condition effect people so differently?  How much does physical pain effect an individuals emotional health and overall quality of life? How is quality of life for an individual defined and do I have a role in judging and or determining this for a patient? Why, as a practitioner is it so easy to accept the appreciation, gratitude and praise from patients when its them who is providing the opportunity to learn, grow and practice skills and utilize knowledge? Overall, how can one learn to understand and empathize with another’s pain in order to communicate more effectively how a treatment can effect a condition?  How much does culture effect perceptions of pain and the ability to humbly provide and receive thanks?  And finally, how does this information help practitioners in the field of therapeutic massage?  Although I may never have adequate or thorough answers to these questions, the thoughts provoked  from them have come to symbolize my experience in Nepal and provide a pleasant reminder of my mission as an individual and practitioner in the healing fields.  As I prepare to leave Nepal  for home my own form of “dukhchha” has developed from the thoughts of missing the wonderful people and culture that welcomed me into their community. For all the patients, interpreters, staff and practitioners that helped cultivate this experience allowing professional and personal growth for me, I wish to express with all sincerity......”dhanybhad!”

Jennifer and I in front of clinic.

Healthcare?

Vajra Varahi Healthcare Clinic

Twenty one days and one hundred and seventy seven treatments later I find myself at the midpoint of my journey here in Nepal.  At this point, I still find myself attempting to make sense of this experience and struggle to find the words to describe what has transpired during this short period of time.  Furthermore,  I have not yet successfully attached or adopted a deeper meaning or understanding to my participation with this project.  I'm beginning to realize that the finding some of these answers may take some time..maybe years.  With three weeks left here at the clinic its hard to imagine that with the remaining time that anymore incredible and enlightening experiences could be possible.  I guess I will know here soon!  Until the time comes when I can adequately describe my existence and stories here in Nepal and at the Varjra Varahi Healthcare Clinic, I will continue to share some of the pictures that visually reflect my experience.  I hope you enjoy them and that they help in keeping my connection with all of you that supported me in this cause. I look forward to sharing more detailed stories soon.

Neck and back pain?

Chinese Herbs in the clinic dispensary.

Off the clinic's lower porch overlooking Chapagoan.

Staircase to the roof porch.

Front entrance to the clinic.

Water and power supply from the roof porch.

Interpreters enjoying lunch on the roof of the clinic.

My treatment room.

Homeopathic and Tibetan medicines in the dispensary.

Patient with chronic pain and sciatica preparing for treatment.

Patient  with left side paralysis.

Chronic pain patient.

Waiting for a treatment.

View of the Himal from the roof porch.  Overlooking the Katmandu valley.

Going to Godarvi for the rural clinic on tuesdays.

Jennifer and I having a break in Boudha, Katmandu.

Front entrance of the clinic from the road.  Clinic on the right ( brick color).

Front entrance to the Ghomba monastery where we share space with the "little monks".  ( clinic on the right in the background).

The interpreters at the clinic are incredibly hard working and amazing individuals.

Villages.

My home for two months.  Temple on left.  Clinic and and living quarters on right.

Saturdays are much anticipated days off.  After six straight days of treating patients at the clinic a refreshing day to relax, explore and re-engergize is welcomed.  Instead of traveling back into Katmandu, a few of the practitioners and videographer decided to spend this last saturday trekking across the countryside outside of Chapagoan to visit some quieter and more remote villages.  Along the way we encountered curious locals who were quick to welcome us for tea and conversation.  Children followed us at various points along the dirt roads wondering about our cameras and were easily entertained by seeing pictures of themselves.  One family invited us to join them on their porch for milk, a Nepali language lesson as well as a mustard oil harvesting demonstration.  The landscape was scattered with terraced agriculture fields and steep foothills of the Himal.  Many locals were cleaning laundry or themselves at the community water sources or out tending to the fields.  On our way back to Chapagoan a generous driver offered us a ride in the back of his dumptruck for the remainder of the journey.  After six hours of trekking we graciously accepted his offer and rode the rest of the way over the mountain pass back to town in style.......on the top of several tons of crushed rock!

Street in Chapagoan near the clinic.

Corn and laundry drying as families socialize in front of their houses.

Workers taking a break from the rice terraces.

Woman cleaning at the community water source while a goat watches from the first floor of her house.

"Little monks" watch the camera in amazement as Tristan films another monk caring for a injured bird.  

Road leading out of Chapagoan toward the smaller villages.

Typical scene during the trek from village to village.

Suspension bridge over deep canyon leading to one of the small villages.

Village street where we stopped for curry potato pastries and a beer.

The landscape with small villages in the background.

Grateful.

Almost a week has past since I began working as a practitioner with the Acupuncture Relief Project in Chapagoan, Nepal.  Although I can't find the words to adequately describe the experience so far, I did want to express how grateful I am for all of you that have supported the project and my participation.  So,  today I chose to share a few pictures of my own and provide two resources that also capture what this experience is about.  Since our arrival the team of practitioners has been being filmed for a short documentary about the project. Tristan Stoch is a videographer and documentary film maker from Portland, OR and has done a remarkable job capturing the essence of this journey so far via video and photography.  Please take a look at his blog for a unique visual prospective about his experience with the project thus far.  http://tristanstoch.tumblr.com/. The Acupuncture Relief  Project's blog site also provides first hand accounts of practioners' recent experiences with the clinic along with some great photos of the clinic and surrounding area. http://www.acupuncturereliefproject.org/news-blog. Once again, thank you for supporting me with this adventure.  I hope you enjoy the resources as much as I enjoying sharing them with you!

Sleeping on the job.

Grains, beans and spices on the street.

View of Thamel from the Hotel in Katmandu.

Working in the fields near the Clinic.

Team being filmed in the streets of Katmandu by documentary filmmaker Tristan Stoch.

Himal at dusk from the clinic.

Rice fields in Chapagoan near the clinic.

Monkey business in Katmandu.

Hanging out in Boudha.

Namaste

The first piece of advice I received before stepping out the hotel's front door to walk the streets of Katmandu from Andrew, the project's president shortly after arriving in Nepal was, "make sure you yield to anything bigger than you".  Seems like a simple enough concept for anyone to understand and applies to just about any environment where you travel, right?  I learned quickly that although this advice was accurate and helpful, it only applies to places in the city where there is actually a space to yield!
Walking around Katmandu is not easy.  Matter of fact, the simplest of jaunts around city blocks ( or lack of) is downright mentally and physically exhausting.  Sidewalks barely exist.  When they do they are often uneven, rugged and full of holes. Walking on the streets is more common but the conditions are usually worse than the sidewalks.  Sometimes gravel.  Sometimes brick. Sometimes pavement.  They are always full of potholes, scattered with animal waste, sewage sludge and trash.  And traffic.  Lots of traffic. So as one eye is watching the ground where you step to keep forward momentum the other is making sure you do not get hit, knocked down or run over.  Either by motorcycle, car, van, bus, rickshaw, cart, tractor, bicycle, pedestrian, young children or livestock.  Cattle roam freely on the streets.  So do ducks, geese, chickens, goats and dogs but they present less threat.  At the same time your senses begin to become stimulated often to the point of becoming overwhelmed.  Horns beeping, engines rumbling, sirens blaring, school kids yelling, dogs barking, whistles blowing and chanting all fill your ears.  The smell of sewage, burning fuel, incense, trash and meals being prepared provide a contrasting fragrance.   Bright colors illuminate narrow alleys from shops, markets, homes and temples making many areas blend together creating a maze where it becomes easy to get lost.  And the energy from the city's movement is felt radiating through your body.  It is only when you are able to stop and slow down that you begin to notice the little things that are special and unique.  You can begin to focus on the beauty and character of the people and their culture.  You notice the passion and begin to understand the spirit in their beliefs.  You see the beauty in the architecture and the connection to history. Consequently, everything that once seemed so foreign and obscure begins to become comfortable, common and familiar.  Eventually, "yielding" becomes an adventure overcome by an unconscious competency while exhaustion transforms to enlightenment and joy.  But at some point you must walk again and the cycle starts all over.

Log Pyres

Funeral preparation

Oldest son's hair removal before his parents cremation.

Cremation ghats

fertility temples

Boudha Stupa

Bouhda Stupa

Hindu funeral

The eyes of Buddha on the Great Stupa

fertility temples

The deceased having their feet cleansed before cremation.

Y,ou can get your picture taken ( for a fee) with a "fake" holyman in tourist areas.

The first two days after arriving were spent getting to know parts of Katmandu and the other practitioners making up our clinical team.  As a group we explored some of the more popular tourist sites including the holy area of Pashupatinath, Boudhanath and Durbar Sqaure.  The Pashupatinath is Nepal's most sacred Hindu cremation site.  Along the Bagmati river log pyres are situated on cremation ghats where bodies are carried to by barefooted pallbearers.  Once there, the body is lowered into the river and the feet are washed. After the oldest son's hair is cut he performs the rites which includes filling the mouth of the deceased with fuel to begin the cremation process.  Once the body is in flames the mourners retreat to observe the process along the banks of the river along with anyone else who care to witness the open air ceremony.  A few hours later the ashes are swept into the river.  Along the opposite side of the river are fertility temples where new life is celebrated and worshipped. The Boudhanath is the home of the Great Stupa where the practices of Buddhism is showcased.  The eyes of the Buddha are situated at the highest point of the Stupa just above the symbol representing the concept of one.  Crowds of people walk clockwise around the Stupa for ritual all hours of the day.  Durbar Square is Katmandu's old city center with temples dating back to the 12th century.  In the square is the Kumari Bahal which is home of the young girl chosen to serve as the Royal Kumari.  She is considered the emanation of the fierce Hindu goddess.  She only makes appearances in public at festivals otherwise sitings are considered an honor and happen rarely. On the day of our visit she did provide us a glimpse as she revealed her painted face briefly through her upper window.  Pictures of the Kumari are absolutely forbidden.  In addition to observing these sites, we leisurely explored the streets of Thamel and Boudha looking through shops and sampling the local cuisine of daal bhaat  and rice dishes fried with water buffalo.  Once we "settled" in, recovered from jet lag and got adjusted to the pace of the city some last minute supplies where purchased as we prepared to relocate to the village of Chapagoan to begin practicing in the Vajra Varahi Healthcare Clinic.